DFF3 - LF R299 + LF CA 50/200-1T

[coconut]

Have a DFF3 installed and currently connected to R299. Also installed in the boat is a CA50/200-1T that I was previously using with a FCV-585 and then later with a DFF-1.

Prior to getting the R299, I used the DFF-3 with the CA50/200-1T (mostly LF) and it worked really well. What I'd like to do is connect the DFF-3 to the LF side of the R299 and the LF side of the CA 50/200-1T. If I were to try this, my assumption would be that the R299 LF wires would connect to the LF input of the DFF-3 with a "C" Tap setting (as it is now). If connecting the 50kHz wires to the HF input of the DFF-3 is possible, would I use a "B" tap setting?

Thanks in advance for any info.

 

[Johnny Electron]

As long as you properly TAP the sounder for the transducer connected, it should be fine. If the 1T has been used on the DFF1 or FCV585; it most likely has an MB1100 matching box that would need to be removed before going to the DFF3.

 

[coconut]

Thanks for your help. Yes, when the CA50/200-1T was connected to the 585, I used a matching box with it. I have to say, that 585 + 50/200-1T combination worked really well and could see fairly clearly up to about 300 Fathoms. 200 Fathoms and below was excellent.

Tested out the R299 + CA50/200 combo with the DFF3 this weekend The results weren't as I expect and suspect user error is the cause. Below is how I connected/tapped things.

R299 Connections
- Blue/White (+) to J6 (1)
- Black/White (-) to J6 (3)
- LF Shield (connected to case)
- Blue (unconnected w/in DFF3)
- Black (unconnected w/in DFF3)
- HF Shield (unconnected w/in DFF3)

I read somewhere that recommended connecting the shield wire to the case. Should I connect to J6 (2)? Also, should the HF shield be connected even if it is not used or should it be bundle/taped with the HF wires so it is out of the way?

CA 50/200-1T Connections
- Red (+) to J7 (1)
- Black (-) to J7 (3)
- Shield (Bundled with R299 LF shield and connect to case)
- Blue (unconnected w/in DFF3
- Green (unconnected w/in DFF3)

DFF3 Tap Settings
LF (R299 LF) - Tap C
HF (CA50/200-1T LF) - Tap B

When on the LF side (using the R299 LF), I can't get a solid picture as I did with the 585. The bottom over 80 fathoms is fuzzy, especially when I am stopped. When the boat is moving, I seem to get a more solid reading. Settings are manual. Transducer is set at 45khz with bandwidth at 20. Adjusted frequency, gain. Initially had TVG set at 7 but as I tried to go lower had a lot of interference. Lowered gain to compensate but found that the best setting was 8 or 9. Noticed at deeper depths, there would be gaps in the bottom reading. Clutter set 30-40.

HF side while using 50/200-1T element seems like it is underpowered. Could this be a tap setting issue? Made similar adjustments as the LF but anything above 60 fathoms starts to fade.

Anything else I should try?

Thanks!

 

[Johnny Electron]

So you say

HF (CA50/200-1T LF) - Tap B

and

CA 50/200-1T Connections
- Red (+) to J7 (1)
- Black (-) to J7 (3)

J7 being the HF WAGO connector; yet you are using the RED and BLACK LF wires of the CA50/200 transducer?

The tap setting for using the 1T HF=C and LF=B. I am starting to get confused but your shield going to the case under the hold down is correct. I worry you are getting your HF and LF confused maybe causing some of your own grief.

 

[coconut]

Thanks Johnny, I do tend to overcomplicate things and have sabotaged my own work and its even more difficult to explain things when I am in that state of mind. Lol.

Wanted to see if I could connect the LF wires of two transducers to the DFF3. Installed in the boat is a CA50/200-1T and an R299. I'd like to connect the LF side of the 299 (blue/white |black white wires) to the LF port (J6) of the DFF3 and the LF side of the CA5//200-1t (black/red wires) to the HF port (J7) of the DFF3.

Initial response was that it was doable as long as it was tapped properly. I connected the R299 LF (blue/white | black/white) to port J6 and CA50/200-T LF (Red/Black) to J7 on the DFF3. Used C tap for R299 LF and B Tap for CA50/200-1t.

When I switched to HF (which actually is the 50Khz of the 1T) it seemed like there wasn't enough power. Up until 80 fathoms or so, the bottom returns were solid and clear, very little interference. Past 80 fathoms, the bottom started fading. I could only surmise that it may be a tap setting issue? Tap literature recommends using tap B when connecting the 50Khz 1T to the DFF3. Would it require a different Tap if the 50Kz is connected to the J7 terminal (HF) of the DFF3?

Also, just for clarity, I am using Tap C on DFF3 LF port to support R299 LF.

Hope I explained this correctly and apologize for any confusion.

Thanks!

 

[Johnny Electron]

You can't connect two LF transducers to the same connector, if that is what you are asking. It is okay to take one LF transducer to the LF side and then another LF transducer to the HF side as long as you TAP them correctly and setup the software to the correct freqs. It is a dual channel sounder and both channels are basically the same except for your settings. For simplicity one is labeled LF and the other HF but they could have just as well called them Channel A and Channel B. If you parallel two LF transducers onto one connector (one channel); you are going to end up smoking something.

 

[coconut]

Johnny, appreciate your help. I have only one transducer per connector (LF R299 and LF 1T). As you mentioned, I am connecting one LF transducer to the LF side and then another LF transducer to the HF side.

When I tested things out, I noticed that the 50Khz 1T, which is connected to the HF side of the DFF3 had a weak signal. Up until about70-80 Fathoms, everything is crystal clear but once I go deeper than that, I start to lose the bottom. I had the TAP set to "B".

Also noticed that the LF R299, connected to the LF side of the DFF3 the picture was very fuzzy and noticed that it was worse when stopped. When I put the boat in gear, it gets clearer. TAP was set to "C". Any idea what would cause this to happen?

One thing I forgot to do when changing the transducer connections is a reset of hardware and settings. I will give that a try and see if anything changes.

In the meantime, if anyone has any ideas on things I should try, please let me know

Thanks!

 

[Johnny Electron]

Also noticed that the LF R299, connected to the LF side of the DFF3 the picture was very fuzzy and noticed that it was worse when stopped.

Without photos, I couldn't even guess.

 

[coconut]

Completely understandable. It was a test of my patience but I eventually got everything figured out. Returns from both transducers are impressive! Time and money well spent! Thanks for your help!

 

[Johnny Electron]

:jump :jump :jump