B260, dff3d, and b175hw

I require a high Q (high pinging) 50/200 transducer. Can’t use a LH chirp ducer in 50/200 mode. Going w b260. Most important sonar on my boat.
Also want dff3d as the 2nd sonar input..
Will 2 networked TZT3’s support a 3rd sonar input with a wide beam for trolling, like the b175hw?
If not, and I don’t network the 2 tzt3’s, and I hook up the b175hw to the 2nd stand-alone tzt3, will I get interference w the b260 and dff3d in full chirp mode on the b175hw? What about setting the b175hw to a narrower range of frequency? Which frequency range or fixed frequency would be best on the b175hw for shallow trolling for wahoo in less than 250’ of water, that would also avoid interference?
 
With the TZT3, you can have two sounders (network or internal) and one multi-beam; maximum. So yes, you can have all three units. With interference rejection on, I don't think you will have much problems with what you are talking about doing.
 
I am new to this and trying to decide what transducer is best for me.

From my little research it seems like the dff3d gives you the same info as the traditional transducers and more.

What would you use the b260 or b175hw for that the dff3d isn’t showing you ?
 
Brendan farfan":3q34jdrn said:
I am new to this and trying to decide what transducer is best for me.

From my little research it seems like the dff3d gives you the same info as the traditional transducers and more.

What would you use the b260 or b175hw for that the dff3d isn’t showing you ?

Good question, there's unique applications for each of those.
The B260 is a duel frequency, for example and is great at marking bottom in deep waters,
The B175HW is a broadband CHIRP, and great at viewing fish echo returns in shallow waters,
The DFF3D is a fantastic bottom mapping echo sounder, but only accepts the 165T style multi-beam transducers.

Depending on the application or purpose (e.g. fishing, diving, navigation, etc.), there's a usefulness for each of these.

Hope this helps, :sail

- Maggy
 
Brendan farfan":dnfgohgj said:
I am new to this and trying to decide what transducer is best for me.

From my little research it seems like the dff3d gives you the same info as the traditional transducers and more.

What would you use the b260 or b175hw for that the dff3d isn’t showing you ?

The B260 will work in deeper water than a dff3d, especially if 50khz is used.
If you're in <600 feet of water, the dff3d is quite nice.

Sometimes people want a particular transducer for bottom discrimination as well which only works on a limited number of transducers.
 
Hello I fish the gulf of mexico with the B260/TM260 and DFF3d, as well as an additional B164, so I have 2 transducers and 1 dff3d.

First off, obviously I don't fire the 260 at the same time as the 164. I make sure that the other one is disabled whenever I am using one of them.

Second, I have zero interference with the 260 and the DFF3D. I have them on and working together all the time. It REALLY helps with the bottom discrimination on one screen helping along with the 3d sounder history on the DFF3D, or using your charting with PBG. When you click on the 2D sounder for a section of rock that shows up on the bottom discrimination and choose for example, "Fish it" , it will show up on your chart plotter open with the PBG, and you can see how they correlate, because often times the scroll/refresh rate is different between the DFF3D and the traditional down sounder when running bottom discrimination.

Third, even if you didn't want to use interference rejection which works nicely, you could also select a preset frequency option on your B175HW, and then choose FM (Manual Chirp) and choose a bandwidth of say 204-250 KHz. The way you would do this is under the FM Manual Chirp settings, you could choose a center frequency of 227 KHz, and choose a bandwidth of 46khz. That gives you 23Khz on either side of the center frequency, so you will have your chirp modulation beginning at 227-23= 204Khz, and your chirp modulation finishing at 227+23 = 250Khz. the 4Khz difference between your 260 and your 175HW should be enough, but you could always go down a bit more to perhaps a 40khz bandwidth with a center frequency at 230khz, with your chirp starting at 210, and finishing at 250.

It will cost you a little bit of chirp resolution, but in shallower waters you're describing, it won't be an issue at all.
 
Let us know what you know what you end up deciding. :jump :jump

- Maggy
 
Back
Top