Adding DFF-3D to Current System/ Transducer / SCX-20 Questions

Bog_Boat

New member
I'd like to add the DFF-3D to my system and was wondering if it would work with my current transducer if I also added the SCX-20 compass. From my understanding one of the important aspects of the specialized transducers is the motion sensor, but as most people highly recommend the SCX-20 to add to the system, I'm wondering if I could skip the specialized transducer. Thank you in advance for any and all help, this is all a lot to wrap my head around.

Current Electronics:
TZTouch3 12"
Furuno NavPilot 300
Airmar B265lh hooked up to TZT
(Old B60 12 still installed)
 
You need the special transducer. And it needs to be mounted where the keel won't be in the 120 degree beamwidth.
The SCX20 is an improved motion sensor and you need heading to make recording work with DFF3D, which the SCX20 also provides. Even if you don't get DFF3D right away, the SCX20 will improve your autopilot function.
 
You need the special transducer. And it needs to be mounted where the keel won't be in the 120 degree beamwidth.
The SCX20 is an improved motion sensor and you need heading to make recording work with DFF3D, which the SCX20 also provides. Even if you don't get DFF3D right away, the SCX20 will improve your autopilot function.
Ok thanks. Was hoping to find a work around. I don’t use my autopilot for much more than navigating in wide open waters so I’ll probably hold off on the SCX-20 until I’m ready to do the whole system. I do a ton of bottom fishing so the DFF-3D has my attention.
 
SCX-20 is amazing, cleans up the sounder with super accurate pitch, roll, and heave information. Big difference for bottom fishing. Besides the AP, also cleans up the overlay on the Radar. I found it very worth the $$.
 
You need the SCX-20 for PBG. The SCX-20 will stabilize the cross-section and triple beam images, side scan too, if you have the triple beam transducer, but if you're fishing fresh/calm water there is no/little motion to smooth. I have the same B265LH as you connected straight to my TZT3. When I installed the DFF-3D, I installed a second (DFF-3D compatible) transducer connected directly to the DFF-3D.

Yep, it adds to the cost of fishing. It's great for exploring - finding new honey holes - setting up just right - but if your set of GPS saved honey holes serves you well, the PBG is a very small aid with those spots.
 
You need the SCX-20 for PBG. The SCX-20 will stabilize the cross-section and triple beam images, side scan too, if you have the triple beam transducer, but if you're fishing fresh/calm water there is no/little motion to smooth. I have the same B265LH as you connected straight to my TZT3. When I installed the DFF-3D, I installed a second (DFF-3D compatible) transducer connected directly to the DFF-3D.

Yep, it adds to the cost of fishing. It's great for exploring - finding new honey holes - setting up just right - but if your set of GPS saved honey holes serves you well, the PBG is a very small aid with those spots.
I still get the rolling on the cross section view with the SCX-20. Should there not be any motion?
 
Interesting: here's my thoughts, but look to one of the moderators to correct or confirm.

Try attaching something to line that when lowered into the water will give a strong return signal. Next, with no forward motion but rocking, lower it to be near but we'll separated from the bottom. If as the boat rocks, the return from the lowered item stays in the same place on the screen, then the 'fish' returns are being stabilized. If the 'fish' return moves sideways on the screen in accordance with the boat rocking then stabilization isn't taking place.

Another test, done simply just looking at the bottom signal in a big swell - does the bottom move up and down or is the 'heave' being stabilized?

In any event, the display is a real time image - no history is shown/maintained. It's a fleeting glimpse of what is under the boat at the immediate moment. It's a wide side-to-side and narrow bow-to-stern view under the boat, that when watching it gives a real time sense of how deep and off to the side of the boat something might be.

It's an improvement on the old/original 'A' scope in that you get information on which side of the boat something is.

Personally, I think your question, and the result of the above tests are interesting. As a practical matter though, I wonder: would stabilization have significant value? When, how, why, who finds that display to be the best - in particular, when/why is it preferred over the triple beam display?
 
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