Optimal Package for TZT3

S

SERG FISHMAN

New member
Dear All,

We are new to use TZTouch 3 (we've got 2 monitors by 12 inch) and we are looking for a good advise on the package (black box, tranducers and etc.) that will allow to use all the functionality of these monitors.
Boat Targa 46, 35 knt, beam 20 degrees, for fishing in Adriatic sea.
Thru-Hull Mount: External and Low-Profile are applicable.
Unlimited budget.
All recomendations will be highly appreciated.
 
What kind of fishing and at what depths? This will help with recommendations for sounder/transducer recommendations.

What are you using for GPS signal? The SCX20 is an outstanding, no-brainer addition to any system.

Do you have/need Autopilot, Radar and/or AIS?

SiriusXM weather?
 
We highly appreciate recommendations provided in this forum, which helped us to make up the following list of equipment that we would like to use:
TZT12F - 2
DFF-3D
DFF1-UHD
HUB-101
SCX-20
FI-5002-NMEA2000
B265LH
SS260 (B54)
We are fishing in Adriatic sea, Montenegro region. The variety of depths is from 35-50 m up to 350-400 m. However we suppose that with B265LH we can see up to 1000 m.
 
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I'll leave the transducer recommendation to others, but I don't think the B265LH will get you to 1000m, probably more like 1000 feet.

For 1000m (if you really need to see that deep), I would imagine you'd want a 2kw/3kw sounder like the DI-FFAMP and a corresponding transducer.

Also not sure why you'd need the FI-5002 unless you're using that as a N2K starter kit.
 
Thank you for your comments.
Previously, it was much easier for me to equip boats, since in Finland they did it right at the factory at my request, and in Miami any whim was possible. Now in Montenegro the main problem is the local dealer, since the order period is from 3 months. We have found a French dealer for online orders, he is more comfortable, the timing is pleasant and he is still putting up with our hesitations and returns.
I got the boat with a set of Raymarin: 3D radar, autopilot, etc but I prefer Furuno equipment. Therefore I decided to leave the Reymarin for the captain, and for myself, in the aft part under the canopy from the flybridge, I would like to assemble a suitable set for fishing.
Let me clarify about the depth, it should be 20-30 m. 1000 m should be crossed out, as we don't plan going there.
We cannot install 2 or 3 kilowatt sensors, taking into account the speed of 35-38 nautical miles per hour, we must limit to one kilowatt.
I accept Sirius weather and add it to the list.
I am looking forward for more recommendations as this forum is very helpful with useful advices.
Maybe you can recommend another black box.

Please be lenient with the text, as I am writing through a translator.
 
SERG FISHMAN said:
We highly appreciate recommendations provided in this forum, which helped us to make up the following list of equipment that we would like to use:
TZT12F - 2
DFF-3D
DFF1-UHD
HUB-101
SCX-20
FI-5002-NMEA2000
B265LH
SS260 (B54)
We are fishing in Adriatic sea, Montenegro region. The variety of depths is from 35-50 m up to 350-400 m. However we suppose that with B265LH we can see up to 1000 m.
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Taking into consideration your comments above, I suggest that you might wish to use a DFF3-UHD in place of the DFF1-UHD (which actually you do not need in any case because it is very similar to the internal sounder in the TZT3). With the DFF3-UHD, I would suggest you install a PM111LH transducer, which can be mounted inside the hull in a tank to "shoot through" if you do not have a suitable location for a pocket. With a boat that has a fast cruising speed, the in-hull mounts often work better. This will give you very good performance all around for fishing and have enough power to work at least to 800 meters if you ever need that in the future.

An SS260 is NOT a B54. It is a conventional 50/200Hz transducer. You will need a 165T-B54 if you want a through hull for the DFF-3D.

Also you do not need or want a HUB-101. It is a very old design ethernet switch that was designed for the original NavNet system more than 15 years ago and has power control that does not work with the TZT3. You can use any modern ethernet switch such as a NetGear GS105, which is also much cheaper. Do not get a "smart" ethernet switch, however, as it will give you problems.

If you have room for the TZT 3 16 display, it is much more capable in terms of having two or three panels open at once using the bigger screen.
 
Quitsa said:
Taking into consideration your comments above, I suggest that you might wish to use a DFF3-UHD in place of the DFF1-UHD (which actually you do not need in any case because it is very similar to the internal sounder in the TZT3). With the DFF3-UHD, I would suggest you install a PM111LH transducer, which can be mounted inside the hull in a tank to "shoot through" if you do not have a suitable location for a pocket. With a boat that has a fast cruising speed, the in-hull mounts often work better. This will give you very good performance all around for fishing and have enough power to work at least to 800 meters if you ever need that in the future.

An SS260 is NOT a B54. It is a conventional 50/200Hz transducer. You will need a 165T-B54 if you want a through hull for the DFF-3D.

Also you do not need or want a HUB-101. It is a very old design ethernet switch that was designed for the original NavNet system more than 15 years ago and has power control that does not work with the TZT3. You can use any modern ethernet switch such as a NetGear GS105, which is also much cheaper. Do not get a "smart" ethernet switch, however, as it will give you problems.

If you have room for the TZT 3 16 display, it is much more capable in terms of having two or three panels open at once using the bigger screen.
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We have ordered 165T-50/200-SS260
https://www.furunousa.com/en/products/165t-50--200-ss260.
(This is to clarify the exact name of the model)
We suppose that it must fit DFF3D.
There is no option for installation of in-hull tranduser because we will have to disassemble half of the boat interior.
Therefore 1 kw tranduser is a preferable option
We are considering istallation of 165T-50/200-SS260 in the center of the keel anb B175L and B175H 20 degrees
There is a question if it supports functions Accu-Fish, Bottom Discrimination, Furuno Digital Filter and Ultra High Definition
We are not able to install PM111LH.
 
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SERG FISHMAN said:
We have ordered 165T-50/200-SS260
https://www.furunousa.com/en/products/165t-50--200-ss260.
(This is to clarify the exact name of the model)
We suppose that it must fit DFF3D.
There is no option for installation of in-hull tranduser because we will have to disassemble half of the boat interior.
Therefore 1 kw tranduser is a preferable option
We are considering istallation of 165T-50/200-SS260 in the center of the keel anb B175L and B175H 20 degrees
There is a question if it supports functions Accu-Fish, Bottom Discrimination, Furuno Digital Filter and Ultra High Definition
We are not able to install PM101LH.
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In that case the combination transducer can be connected to the DFF-3D black box and to one of your TZT3 units (it has two connectors). The B175H/B175L pair can be connected to the second TZT3 using a Y cable. You co not need a DFF1-UHD at all. The SS260 side of the combo transducer will probably give you Accu-fish and Bottom Discrimination since it is a single housing conventional 50/200Hz transducer. The Furuno Digital filter and UHD are not really functions but rather descriptions of the technology that you would see on the CHIRP sounder when using the B175H/B175L pair.

I have a B175H/B175L pair on my boat (and a DFF-3D). The B175H works very well showing fish with the TZT3 internal sounder in water less than 150 meters. It is a good choice especially when you have a DFF-3D also.

I also have a small boat that has a TZT2 and a B64 transducer, which gives Accu-fish and bottom discrimination. I don't use them, however. Honestly if you learn to read the sounder, you can see fish and discern bottom characteristics without Accu-fish or bottom discrimination.
 
Quitsa said:
In that case the combination transducer can be connected to the DFF-3D black box and to one of your TZT3 units (it has two connectors). The B175H/B175L pair can be connected to the second TZT3 using a Y cable. You co not need a DFF1-UHD at all. The SS260 side of the combo transducer will probably give you Accu-fish and Bottom Discrimination since it is a single housing conventional 50/200Hz transducer. The Furuno Digital filter and UHD are not really functions but rather descriptions of the technology that you would see on the CHIRP sounder when using the B175H/B175L pair.

I have a B175H/B175L pair on my boat (and a DFF-3D). The B175H works very well showing fish with the TZT3 internal sounder in water less than 150 meters. It is a good choice especially when you have a DFF-3D also.

I also have a small boat that has a TZT2 and a B64 transducer, which gives Accu-fish and bottom discrimination. I don't use them, however. Honestly if you learn to read the sounder, you can see fish and discern bottom characteristics without Accu-fish or bottom discrimination.
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Thank you for the genious solution suggested.
Please advise if power and frequency alterations are available on DFF3-UHD?
If the control panel is required for TZT3 16 or 19?
Is it reasonable using big IPad or Samsung latest models in addition to TZT3 12 small screen.
 
SERG FISHMAN said:
Thank you for the genious solution suggested.
Please advise if power and frequency alterations are available on DFF3-UHD?
If the control panel is required for TZT3 16 or 19?
Is it reasonable using big IPad or Samsung latest models in addition to TZT3 12 small screen.
Click to expand...

A DFF3-UHD is tunable across a broad frequency range if the transducer can handle it. But you can choose frequency with the internal sounder on the TZT3 using the three preset frequency options.

I don't understand what you mean by "control panel" unless you want to have knobs and buttons like the TZT12 to control it. In that case you would need to add one of the external control pads. But the touch screen controls work well on the larger TZT3 displays. I have a controller for mine and very rarely use it and would not get one knowing what I know now.

You could use an iPad to mirror the TZT3 screen via an HDMI connection. The problem you may have unless your helm area is very well shaded is that iPads do not have great visibility in sunlight compared to the displays on the TZT3s.
 
Quitsa said:
A DFF3-UHD is tunable across a broad frequency range if the transducer can handle it. But you can choose frequency with the internal sounder on the TZT3 using the three preset frequency options.

I don't understand what you mean by "control panel" unless you want to have knobs and buttons like the TZT12 to control it. In that case you would need to add one of the external control pads. But the touch screen controls work well on the larger TZT3 displays. I have a controller for mine and very rarely use it and would not get one knowing what I know now.

You could use an iPad to mirror the TZT3 screen via an HDMI connection. The problem you may have unless your helm area is very well shaded is that iPads do not have great visibility in sunlight compared to the displays on the TZT3s.
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You advised that we can choose frequency with the internal sounder on the TZT3. Please response if we can choose power as well?
 
It is possible to adjust the transmit power on the TZT 3 internal sounder in the settings. Normally I leave it on the highest setting, which is fine unless the water is very shallow. There isn't much reason to change the power setting -- adjusting gain is how I tune.
 
Quitsa said:
It is possible to adjust the transmit power on the TZT 3 internal sounder in the settings. Normally I leave it on the highest setting, which is fine unless the water is very shallow. There isn't much reason to change the power setting -- adjusting gain is how I tune.
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We know the following Black Boxes:
DFF3
DFF1-UHD
DFF3-UHD
BBDS1
DI-FFAMP
Please advise what are their advantages for NAV NET TZT3 in addition to the power increasing?
 
The DFF3-UHD or DI-FFAMP are functionally quite similar. The difference is that the DFF3-UHD is self-contained while the DI-FFAMP works with the internal TZT3 to provide higher power output. Both will give you somewhat more flexibility in setting frequency and a few other parameters. But the main reason to use one of them is to support a low frequency transducer that can operate at 2 or 3kW power output. That is only important for best performance in deep water (greater than 300-400 meters), which from your comments appears not important for the type of fishing you do . The other black boxes are either duplicative of the internal TZT 3 sounder (DFF1-UHD) or older technology that gains you nothing.

You are as we say "overthinking" the problem. Given the limitations of your installation options and the requirements for where you will be fishing, the internal TZT3 sounder using a B175H/B175L and a DFF-3D will be an excellent system and really all you need.

That's what I have on my boat and I have no problem catching fish!

IMG_3556.jpeg
 
Quitsa said:
The DFF3-UHD or DI-FFAMP are functionally quite similar. The difference is that the DFF3-UHD is self-contained while the DI-FFAMP works with the internal TZT3 to provide higher power output. Both will give you somewhat more flexibility in setting frequency and a few other parameters. But the main reason to use one of them is to support a low frequency transducer that can operate at 2 or 3kW power output. That is only important for best performance in deep water (greater than 300-400 meters), which from your comments appears not important for the type of fishing you do . The other black boxes are either duplicative of the internal TZT 3 sounder (DFF1-UHD) or older technology that gains you nothing.

You are as we say "overthinking" the problem. Given the limitations of your installation options and the requirements for where you will be fishing, the internal TZT3 sounder using a B175H/B175L and a DFF-3D will be an excellent system and really all you need.

That's what I have on my boat and I have no problem catching fish!

View attachment 4812
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We are impressed with the catch on the picture and even feel envy😊 If it is not a secret, what is your location?
Thank you for your advise!
We nave another question.
If transducers CHIRP B175H/B175L without functions AF, BD, FM have advantage to tranducer CW B260 50/200KHz with the above mentioned functions.
 
We are in the northeastern US. That fish is a 35 kg yellowfin tuna caught south of Cape Cod. They are migratory fish that move into our area usually in late June when the water warms and stay through September when the water starts to get colder.

As for your transducer question, there is a very, very long-running debate as to the benefits of CHIRP compared to fixed frequency (CW) transducers. My own experience is that there is not a single answer. With a B175H, you can operate it as a high performance CW transducer. as well as a CHIRP transducer. The reverse is not true since the B260 does not have the capability to be driven as a CHIRP transducer.

What I do is use my sounder in fixed frequency mode when fishing for bottom fish in 10-40m of water, which I find provides the best results. However, when I am trolling in deeper water but focused on the first 20-100 m of the water column, I use the sounder in CHIRP mode. So to answer your question, the advantage of the B175H is that you can do either.
 
Quitsa said:
We are in the northeastern US. That fish is a 35 kg yellowfin tuna caught south of Cape Cod. They are migratory fish that move into our area usually in late June when the water warms and stay through September when the water starts to get colder.

As for your transducer question, there is a very, very long-running debate as to the benefits of CHIRP compared to fixed frequency (CW) transducers. My own experience is that there is not a single answer. With a B175H, you can operate it as a high performance CW transducer. as well as a CHIRP transducer. The reverse is not true since the B260 does not have the capability to be driven as a CHIRP transducer.

What I do is use my sounder in fixed frequency mode when fishing for bottom fish in 10-40m of water, which I find provides the best results. However, when I am trolling in deeper water but focused on the first 20-100 m of the water column, I use the sounder in CHIRP mode. So to answer your question, the advantage of the B175H is that you can do either.
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We are very thankfull for your communication and good advices. However we tend to choose between B265LH и B275 LHW because it is symmetrical with to our B260 that we use untill SS260 comes upon the ordered. Please advise which one would you choose B265LH or B275LHW?
 
My view is that the "HW" transducer is somewhat duplicative of the wide beam image produced by the DFF-3D so I would think the B275LH is more complementary in your system. However, many people like the HW transducer especially for trollling. It does not provide the detailed bottom picture of the narrower beam LH, which to me is a point in favor of the LH.
 
I know I am coming into this conversation a little late, I have 2 boats. One with the B265LH and one with the B275LHW that is complimented with the 165T-50/200-SS260 combo transducer. There is not a lot of difference in the picture between the 265 and 275. The 265, while not officially supported by Furuno documentation does provide Accu-fish while the 275 does not. The elements in the 165T-50/200-SS260 appear to give me the Accu-fish capabilities as well. It still comes down to knowing how to read your sounder display to trust the measurements that it is providing, but when I am trolling over what I perceive to be small marks (under 19 inches) the Accufish as well as the fish that I am hooking up on tend to indicate the same. I will say on a sidenote the sidescan that they recently came out with is a game-changer. I have caught more fish by being able to see the fact that they were 150-200 feet to my left or right and turn onto them than I would have otherwise thought capable of doing.
 
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