Sounder Issue with Navnet VX2

[manike]

Hello,

I bought my Scout 262 in 2007/2008 and had a full Navnet VX2 system in stalled and set up including Charts, Sounder, Radar and Symrad Autopilot. From my warranty registration email this is my serial number BBWGPS SN# 4411-5765

It's the GD-1920C with Radar.

I updated the software and maps in 2012ish to C-Maps and used it perfectly for a year or so. Then life happened and the boat sat on the trailer for the next 10 years.

This year I got the boat back in the water and everything is working well apart from the Sounder. I did just update the C-Maps to the latest version last week.

Now it's been a while but I remember my dealer telling me an important start up sequence. I can't remember what it was though.. it involved the order of the Master Electronics switch, maybe the accessory electronics switch and the main Furuno head unit power on.

Now when I first got the boat in the water again everything worked apart from the sounder. I thought something may be bad but nothing was obviously wrong. Next day everything worked including the sounder! I think I may have turned everything on with a different sequence but I am not certain.

Today the sounder wasn't working again. I tried every sequence possible and no luck. Could I have messed something up doing the wrong sequence? Anyone know if the main accessory should be on first or after the head unit? Anything I should go through and check? Nothing looks loose on the back of the head unit.

I have tried to read up here as there is so much good information, but I am not sure what is relevant to my unit or not. Do I have an internal battery that needs replacing? Can I do that myself? I am trying to get as much information as possible as the boat is an hour and a half away and I want to be as prepared as possible for the next time I go down to it, so I can work out a solution

I will attach some photo's to see if they help.

Thank you

 

[manike]

More photo's as I am only allowed 3 at a time



I guess this shows when I updated it to C-Maps the first time, so it would have been around then I updated the main software to be able to do so?



All I get now...

 

[manike]

Last photo for now...

I don't be able to change the setting as it says it is set to Auto? I tried changing it away from Auto but it wouldn't.

 

[Magnetron]

While every boat is different, typically you need to provide 12/24VDC to: the black box sounder (e.g. ETR6/10, DFF1, BBDS1) and Network Ethernet Switch/Hub in addition to powering on the MFD (VX2).

If in sequence it would be:
1. Network switch/hub
2. Radar/Sounder blackbox
3. MFD or Plotter

Hope this helps, :sail

- Maggy

 

[manike]

Hi Maggy,

That does help, and I believe that's what I was doing after I remembered there being a sequence. Unfortunately it did not solve the issue

I have been reading about an internal battery. Is that something I have in my unit? If so can I replace myself? Could that be the issue? I haven't changed it or had it changed since purchasing the system.

I will be going down this week to try and see if I have a network switch/hub and the black box, and if they are powering up correctly.

What else should I be checking looking for that might be my issue?

Thank you.

 

[Magnetron]

I will be going down this week to try and see if I have a network switch/hub and the black box, and if they are powering up correctly.

What else should I be checking looking for that might be my issue?

Check the overall boat power current, are the batteries at 12.2VDC or 14.2VDC? Low voltage can account for all sorts of issues. In addition, I might bring an ethernet cable tester or some extra ethernet cables in order to bypass the current network cables going to and from my sounder (in case the copper cables have degraded over time).

Hope this helps, :sail

- Maggy

 

[manike]

They are new batteries this season to get the boat back in the water, and they are on shore power/charger when docked, but I will double check them.

I have an Ethernet tester I can bring. Do I need to connect to the sounder under water? or at the black box? I also have more Ethernet cables. I wonder how long I need?...

Any thoughts on the battery in the VX2?

Thank you

 

[Magnetron]

I have an Ethernet tester I can bring. Do I need to connect to the sounder under water? or at the black box? I also have more Ethernet cables. I wonder how long I need?...

Any thoughts on the battery in the VX2?

With the ethernet tester you would be testing between the sounder plug and the ethernet hub. Until we get echoes or a main bang (red line) on the fish finder it is unimportant if it's done in water or not. For bypass cables, I carry a 20' and sometimes a 50', but also with bypass cables they are just going lay over the deck while we are testing and not actually running new cable yet.

As for the battery, unless you are getting a warning or something I don't see any battery replacement advisories for the GD-1920C/NTs.

Hope this helps, :sail

- Maggy

 

[manike]

So I went down to work on the boat today. It took me a while to find where all of the electronics were hidden! So I didn't get as much done as I wanted to.

Also I couldn't use a standard network cable to test as the end are different (waterproof?) Plugs so at a minimum I need one or two of the end adaptor cables to test. Is there a part number for those? I am tempted to get all new cable from the sounder. What would the part number/link for that?

I found the sounder transceiver and have a picture below. It was showing a green light and the network switch also showed a green light where it was plugged in.

If I have a sounder, radar, gps and satellite weather how many cables should be network plugs into the Linksys SD205… I just realized I only have three... One of which was from the Sirius weather and the end is obviously bad (I don't have a Sirius subscription so this won't work anyway will it?)

Sounder box had a green steady light on it.

Sirius weather had an orange flashing light.

I confirmed that the master accessory switch activates the so tinder box and the network switch at the same time. I waited and then turned on the display but still no luck.

I need cables and more time...

Any advice to help for my next trip down?

 

[manike]

Running the tests


When trying to run the sounder test it flashed this screen so fast that the only way to capture it was to take a still from a video.

 

[manike]

Sirius weather needs a subscription to work right?


The network end has loose wires so I plan to replace it (even if I don't have a subscription)

 

[manike]

The lower light illuminated green when powered up.





This switch had power and the lights flashed green for the cables that were in place.



If I have Radar, Sounder, GPS, Autopilot (not Furuno) and Satnav... how many network cables should be in the switch?

 

[Johnny Electron]

From what you named, the weather (BBWX1), the MFD, and the sounder (ETR6/10N aka BBFF1) would go to your hub/switch.

 

[manike]

From what you named, the weather (BBWX1), the MFD, and the sounder (ETR6/10N aka BBFF1) would go to your hub/switch.

Great, so then the three connections I had were correct and nothing is missing. I appreciate the confirmation.

Time to find some new cables and test I think.. Is there a part number/link for the cables and the ends that convert to go to the hub/switch?

Can I stick the sounder cable into any port on the hub/switch? I think I can from other networks I have messed with at home, but it's not my forte.

 

[Magnetron]

Time to find some new cables and test I think.. Is there a part number/link for the cables and the ends that convert to go to the hub/switch?

The original blue cable going into the network port of the BBFF1 (ETR6/10) is a 000-144-422, than you put a 000-144-463 on it to convert over to RJ-45.

(edit) With the cables you have, Dealers can assist with how to field dress a blue cable into a RJ-45 cable

Can I stick the sounder cable into any port on the hub/switch? I think I can from other networks I have messed with at home, but it's not my forte.

Yes, as long as the hub/switch remains an "unmanaged switch."

Hope this helps, :sail

- Maggy

 

[manike]

Time to find some new cables and test I think.. Is there a part number/link for the cables and the ends that convert to go to the hub/switch?

The original blue cable going into the network port of the BBFF1 (ETR6/10) is a 000-144-422, than you put a 000-144-463 on it to convert over to RJ-45.

Or with the cables you have, you can look at this document for how to field dress a blue cable into a RJ-45 cable: https://furunousa.com/-/media/sites/fur ... _cable.pdf

Can I stick the sounder cable into any port on the hub/switch? I think I can from other networks I have messed with at home, but it's not my forte.

Yes, as long as the hub/switch remains an "unmanaged switch."

Hope this helps, :sail

- Maggy

Fantastic, thank you!

Cables ordered, along with a used (but guarantee'd working) BBFF1 ETR-6/10N. Can I just swap that in to test or do I need to change the set up?

The link to the "field dressing a cable wouldn't allow me access". Could you email it to me? manike @ gmail. com I do have all the tools to wire up RJ45 connections/plugs.

Is there a currently available transducer you would recommend, or one I can buy used to test that will work with what I have?

I appreciate all the help and am keen to get this system up and running so we can go fishing!

 

[manike]

Woohoo! Looks like a bad cable from the Sounder to hub/switch. Although I couldn't verify either cable or adapter on their own so switched both, Maybe it was the interface between the two? I just need a shorter cable as in typical fashion I got the long one in case I had to run it from the console all around. 1m cable ordered already!



Seems to be working reliably now. Thank you to all for the help!

Next question... if I want to add another display (say the one photographed below)

Iis it as easy as adding a network cable to the hub and power to the screen? I just want it for the fish finder to have a big display while keeping everything else up such as Radar and plotter.

That one is local but has a bad battery, what is the cost to send it in for the battery replacement and software update if it is in fact possible for me to add it to what I have already?

Thanks!

 

[Johnny Electron]

That is a NavNet series one. You can mix them but the network setup naming needs to comply with names used in the Vx2.

 

[manike]

That is a NavNet series one. You can mix them but the network setup naming needs to comply with names used in the Vx2.

Thank you. Is this one a better choice? It would also need a battery replacement.

 

[Johnny Electron]

Yes; that is a Vx2 and better choice.