Wiring dff1-uhd and transducer issues

My Airmar b175L transducer dies after 3 months. It was professionally replaced but ever since I am getting a ton of interference when the b175L is on.

The b175H duper works fine although sometimes I lose both fro working (maybe a loose wire).

Can you tell me if the following pictures of my dff1-uhd show that the wiring is correct? Only thing I can see is maybe the orange wire should not be plugged into the wago.

Also, I’ve never been able to get water temperature and thought those ducers are equipped to do so.

Thanks for any help.
 

Attachments

  • 0298AEE4-1F38-4ADE-9E92-ADACEA1270A7.jpeg
    0298AEE4-1F38-4ADE-9E92-ADACEA1270A7.jpeg
    699.6 KB · Views: 2,016
  • 47159ACC-B6C9-43E4-B683-82AC3A687C4E.jpeg
    47159ACC-B6C9-43E4-B683-82AC3A687C4E.jpeg
    636.1 KB · Views: 2,016
  • 3D8BF81F-6118-4169-8331-445F1C7C6D31.jpeg
    3D8BF81F-6118-4169-8331-445F1C7C6D31.jpeg
    674.6 KB · Views: 2,016
Here is a photo showing the interference on the left side of the screen. The shot was taken after I switched from the low frequency to high and as you can see, the high frequency works fine.
 

Attachments

  • 8B5B3D62-FE6F-44D1-A1B5-38969F873E20.jpeg
    8B5B3D62-FE6F-44D1-A1B5-38969F873E20.jpeg
    419.4 KB · Views: 2,015
Cultivatedcoral,
The Orange (TID) wire should not be connected. What you seeing on the LF side is very similar to what see were seeing with the 50Khz side of the B-164. What was happening is that the transducer was ringing after the transmit pulse. What you can do to confirm this is to put your hand on the back of the transducer and watch if that "banding" changes. After we talked to Airmar about this they added a few steps in their installation guide to help prevent this. You also can loosen the backing nut a 1/4 turn to watch the change. Below are a few pictures from the testing I did. Let me know if this helps.

Snips
 

Attachments

  • 131_6928.JPG
    131_6928.JPG
    556.2 KB · Views: 2,013
  • 582  B-164 2.jpg
    582 B-164 2.jpg
    574.5 KB · Views: 2,013
So I loosened the backing nut and it did not help with the banding. I also put my hand on the back of the transducer but did not see a change.

Any other suggestions?

Thank you.
 
Cultivatedcoral,
The UHD is a single sounder the alternates between frequencies. So if you finding that the HF side is working OK the only other variable is the LF transducer and how it is mounted. There are a few settings you can try to help suppress what you are seeing. If you have the Zero Line Rejection available make sure it is on and set to to 2.5, next is to set the LF STC control to 10. I don't see what I would consider noise in your screen shots however I see that neither of the shields of the transducer cables are going to the metal cable clamp. I haven't seen an unshielded transducer cause the type of banding you are seeing but it is worth a try.

Snips
 
Snips":3rbj7yqk said:
Cultivatedcoral,
The UHD is a single sounder the alternates between frequencies. So if you finding that the HF side is working OK the only other variable is the LF transducer and how it is mounted. There are a few settings you can try to help suppress what you are seeing. If you have the Zero Line Rejection available make sure it is on and set to to 2.5, next is to set the LF STC control to 10. I don't see what I would consider noise in your screen shots however I see that neither of the shields of the transducer cables are going to the metal cable clamp. I haven't seen an unshielded transducer cause the type of banding you are seeing but it is worth a try.

Snips

Thanks Snips. I’m not sure which metal clamps you are referring to. Should I be attaching the shielded part to the clamp?
 
Cultivatecoral,
The transducer cable clamp is help in place by the two Phillip head screws. Each transducer cable has an overall shield wire, normally I attached this wire under one of the screws.

This most likely won't fix your banding issue but its worth a try.

Snips
 
Back
Top