Fcv 1150 transducer

I fish from 30’ into around 1500’ for bottom fish and tuna in a 40’ inboard boat. What are my best options as far as transducer’s? I like the idea of the tilted element but could honestly go either way thru hull or tilted. I have a temp sensor already so that’s not needed but can be left disconnected if need be. Chirp or no chirp? Thanks for the help.
 
Tunaorlater,
Do you trailer to boat? Do you have pictures of the hull?

Snips
 
Tunaorlater,
I have an idea of what your hull looks like but I would like to be sure before I make a recommendation for you. What transducer are you currently using?

Snips
 
Tunaorlater,
Thank you for the link. I should have ask this question before but what is the vessel max speed?

As you know the R199 was a in-hull transducer. The thought behind these transducers was quite good i.e. don't have to cut a hole in the hull, no drag, etc.... But in reality the performance isn't good in 99% on the installations. The two main reasons is that you can't regain the round trip signal loss of shooting through the hull plus you are trying to shoot through the boundary/turbulence layer of water.

So what to do. If you are looking for Tuna in the upper part of the water column (<300ft) I would look at either the B-275 or R-109LHW. The LF side of the 109 will give you better deep water performance for fishing in canyons. However both transducers have speed restrictions of 30 knots.

Snips
 
The top speed of the boat is around 30 knots, typically I cruise around 22. The B275 is the ducer I was looking at so I’m glad you recommended that. I’ve been told by a few of my buddies to shy away from the wide version if I’m trying to anchor on wrecks a lot which I do often. Does this sound right to you? Also does that unit come with a plug and if so I should just cut it off? Thanks for all your help.
 
Tunaorlater,
The B275LHW is a Chirp transducer and doesn't have a plug on the end of the cable. It is probably not the best for pin pointing wrecks because of it's wide HF beam width. If you need a narrow HF beam width the B-265 is a better choice for wrecks and thermoclines.

Snips
 
Thanks again. Last question I swear. Is there a tilted element pair that would work as well as the 265 or do you not recommend tilted element in this size boat?
 
Tunaorlater,
As you probably have read this is the situation that Stew is having with his 526/20. It is much harder to get smooth water flow over a flush mounted transducer. Even a transducer that is using a fairing block if you put it in the wrong location it's performance is going to suffer.

One option more and more are starting to use is installing two 200Khz transducers. A good example would be a B275 with a separate flush narrow 200Khz transducer. They add a switch to select which 200Khz they want to use based on their needs. If you are looking for wrecks in shallow water they use the narrow and switch to the wide when fishing.

Snips
 
Yes Airmar makes a transducer switch box.
I have one on my boat, switch between two 1k Transducers.
Can switch transducers while running without harming anything.
You can use one Echosounder and two transducers or one Transducer and two Echosounders.
Works great on the Garmin system I had. Just switched to the 295..
Dont know why it will not work on furuno.
The part number is Airmar SB260 Switchbox....
 
I installed the B265 and so far so good but I’ve only been as deep as 50’. I have my Lo setting at 42 and bandwidth of 21. Hf is 200 with a bandwidth of 40. Does this seem like a good place to start? I had hf lower at 155 and it seemed to get a lot more clutter on the screen and had to raise the gain up considerably to lose that. Hopefully I will get deep this week to put it to the test better.
 
empire07":3rmuwfzu said:
Hi snips I’m using 42 and 200
I’ve tried 50 and something around 170 from memory

I’m around the same. HF seems to work much better than LF. I tried the recommended HF settings and it seemed not to mark well at all in shallow water so I went to the standard 200
 
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