Upgrade 1100 to FCV295

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Anonymous

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Our 1100 screen is starting to go again... had it repaired a couple weeks ago, but unfortunately it appears it was only a temporary fix...
I purchased a FCV295 that I hope to install and trying to get everything set to go...
I was originally told (from the sales guy) that they were a direct swap... unplug the 1100 and plug in the 295... From what I can tell from the drawings I've found, there's a lot more to it and not likely that quick and easy...
I do not know the transducer that is installed. It is a thru-hull and fair size, but do not know the model... There is one cable that comes from the transducer and goes to some form of electronic board (best description from the Captain I could get) where two cables leave and connect to the HF and LF ports. It is likely from the year 2000 when the boat was built...
To complicate the situation, the boat is 6 hours away from me, it's a charter boat and completely booked for the next few weeks, my captain is a great fisherman, but not a wiring guy... So, I have a short window from about 6:00 pm when he gets back to the dock until ??? But definitely have to be back ready for fishing at 5:00 am to accomplish the swap... This doesn't leave much room for surprises or testing...
I'm heading down Thursday and if it's straight forward, will swap it then... if I need to find more info or additional prep, I'll be back down the in a week or two and will try again...
Sorry for the longwinded post, but trying to give as much info as possible...
Thanks!!!
 
Leapfrog,
The FCV-1100 used plugs for the power and transducers connections where the FCV-295 uses a terminal strip for power and WAGO connectors for the transducer connections. As long as the current wiring is long enough you should be able to reuse it. If you turn off the breaker going to the 1100 I would cut off the three plug power plug and that will wire into the two position power terminal, white should be + and black -. The transducers will have two four pin plugs, if you remove the shell of the connector you will find that a wires are connected to pins 2 and 4 with the shield to pin 3. Note the color of the wiring, the wire that is going to pin 2 will go to pin 1 of the three pin (orange) WAGO connector of the FCV-295. The wire going to pin 4 will connect to pin 3 of the WAGO. The shield wire will connect to metal cable clamp. The FCV-295 is supplied with a small white WAGO tool that you will use. The wiring should be pretty straight forward. Next you will need to find out what transducers the 1100 was programmed for. To find out you can hold any button in while powering up the 1100, hold the button in until you see the transducer setup page. Most likely you will find that the HF side is 200Khz and the LF is 50khz. You will need to program the FCV-295 for the same frequencies and Tap settings. Both sounders have "tap" settings that control the output power. The FCV-1100 will have a panel on the back that you can remove to see the jumper tap setting wires. The FCV-295 uses a WAGO connector for setting the taps. If the FCV-295 is brand new, the first time you turn it on it should go directly into the set up mode. If not, hold the menu button while you power it up to access the menu.

Snips
 
Thank you!!! :respect
I'll have fairly easy access to the breaker box and will just run a new duplex wire to the FCV-295 for power.
I agree that it's most likely a 50/200. Pulling the settings from the 1100 will be a good start. Found some of the past suggestions for tweaking that you and other mods have written and will apply if time permits.
The single main transducer wire runs to a terminal strip and the wires are then split to a short cable for the HF and LF connectors. I'm leaning towards just running normal wire from the terminal strip to the WAGO connector to save the factory cables (just in case I have to go back). Never mind!!! I don't need the terminal strip... I just wire them to the WAGO!!! Duh!!!
Is the temp connectors the same between the 1100 and 295???
I think I've got this!!!
:furuno
 
Leapfrog,
The 6-pin temp plugs are the same for the two sounders. Just make sure you go into the 295's menu to tell it to look for the correct temp input i.e. NMEA or own.

Snips
 
A couple notes for others prepping for the same...
Upgrade went great! The 295 is really nice!!!
Got a little tweaking and playing to do left, but overall straightforward!
Plan for an hour or two (mostly due to access issues).
The opening for the 1100 is a little larger than the one required for the 295, but I was able to cover the opening and still attach the screws to hold it in place securely. The starboard will need to be replaced when I do a new panel layout, so wasn't worried about the perfect fit for now.
I removed the terminal strip and cables from the 1100 and ran the cables directly to the 295 which was good because they were looking a little rough after 15 years.
Temp sensor was a direct swap. Need to add the data box to display the temperature.
The power cable requires three wires. +/-/ground in a number 16. I only had duplex cable, so I ran a second cable taped to the first and used only one of the wires for the ground.
Thanks again Snips!!!
 
LeapFrog,
Thanks for the update, glad to hear the good news.

Snips
 
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